Also-Rans
Not looking good for my making it to the next round in Sock Madness. As of about an hour ago, there are only 6 slots left in my division, and I still have more than an hour to go until lunch, with 2 more pattern repeats and the cuff on my second sock to do. And, even if I finish, not sure I'll be able to post a pic before I get home tonight. Sigh! I'll keep my toes crossed (can't cross the fingers and knit at the same time!) but it's not looking good. Still, they're nice-looking socks, even if I can't take a good pic.
It occurred to me that, now that I know they are not using my sock designs for Sock Madness, I can post the pics and patterns here. So! Without further ado:
****************************************************************************
Bridget's Madly Cabled Socks
on foot
These socks are worked from the toe up, because that’s how I like to work socks ( ☺ ) and have a short-rowed heel, because I think it looks nicer than a heel flap. Purling the sole stitches is what Charlene Schurch calls a “Princess Foot”, because it is more comfortable to walk on the knit side of the stitches than the purl side.
Materials:
100g/190yds dk yarn
set of 5 dp needles, size 5, or size to get gauge
16 stitch markers (optional)
Gauge:
22 stitches/30 rows to 4 inches/10 cm
Terms:
wrap next stitch (purling): bring yarn to back, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle
wrap next stitch (knitting): bring yarn to front, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle
kfb: knit in front and back of next st
pfb: purl in front and back of next st
k tbl: knit through the back loop, resulting in a twisted stitch (I do all my ribbing with a twisted knit stitch; it seems to make for a springier ribbing.)
Toe:
Using a figure 8 cast on, (http://www.knitty.com/issuewinter02/FEATtiptoptoes.html) cast on 16 stitches.
Round 1: p8, k8
Round 2: pfb of first stitch, p3; take up another needle, p3, pfb in next stitch; take up another needle, kfb, k3; with free needle, k3, kfb. Stitches are now evenly distributed on 4 needles, 5 stitches on each.
Round 3: pfb, p8, pfb, kfb, k8, kfb
Round 4: pfb, p10, pfb, kfb, k10, kfb
Round 5: p14, k14
Repeat rounds 4 and 5, increasing the number of stitches between the inreases by two each increase round (so round 6 would have 12 st between them) until there are a total of 48 stitches.
Begin pattern:
Round 1, 2, 4, 5 &6: p24,* p1, k6, p1* repeat to end
Round 3: p24, *p1, sl next three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle, p1* repeat to end
Continue with these 6 rounds until the foot of sock is 2 inches shorter than desired final foot length, ending with Round 6.
Begin short-row heel:
(worked back and forth over half the stitches)
Row 1: p23, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 2: k22, wrap next stitch, turn
Work rows 1 and 2, decreasing the number of stitches worked before the wrap by 1 on each row until there are 8 stitches left unwrapped, ending with a wrong side row. (If you like, a stitch marker can be inserted each time you slip the wrapped stitch back to the left needle; this makes it easier to see where the next wrap should go. This uses a blurt-load of stitch markers, but it’s a lifesaver, if you have to put your work down in the middle of the heel!)
Row 3: p8, purl next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch (there are now two wraps on this stitch), turn
Row 4: k9, knit next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 5: p10, purl next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 6: k11, knit next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until all heel stitches and wraps have been worked, ending with a wrong side row. (If you inserted stitch markers, take them out only after the stitch and its wraps have been knit; slip the marker and the stitch when you do the second wrap, then slip both back.)
Leg:
Purl across heel stitches then, continue the pattern as established on instep stitches. On next round, continue the pattern across the heel stitches to establish the pattern.
Work the 6 rounds of the pattern until leg is 3.5 inches, ending with Round 6.
Cuff:
Round 1: (k tbl, p1) repeat until end
Work until cuff measures 1 inch. Bind off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in loose ends.
BTW, if you want to make my anal-retentive heart sing, on the second sock you will make the cables twist the other way by holding the needle in back, k3 off the left needle, then k3 off the cable needle. I'm just sayin', is all.
*******************************************************************************
Mad Bridget’s Faux Cables
on foot
These socks look cabled, but there is no changing of the order of the stitches, and hence no need for a cable needle, or the “guts” method of just dropping a stitch off the needle, working the next one, then picking up the dropped stitch on the correct side of the work. They’re worked from the toe up, because that’s how I like to work socks ( ☺ ) and have a short-rowed heel, because I think it looks nicer than a heel flap. The stitch motif comes from Sensational Knitted Socks by Charlene Schurch.
Materials:
100g/190yds dk yarn
set of 5 dp needles, size 5, or size to get gauge
16 stitch markers (optional)
Gauge:
22 stitches/30 rows to 4 inches/10 cm
Terms:
wrap next stitch (purling): bring yarn to back, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle
wrap next stitch (knitting): bring yarn to front, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle
kfb: knit in front and back of next st
Toe:
Using a figure 8 cast on, (http://www.knitty.com/issuewinter02/FEATtiptoptoes.html) cast on 16 stitches. Knit one round.
Round 2: kfb of first stitch, k3; take up another needle, k3, kfb in next stitch; take up another needle, kfb, k3; with free needle, k3, kfb. Stitches are now evenly distributed on 4 needles, 5 stitches on each.
Round 3: kfb, k8, kfb twice, k8, kfb
Round 4: kfb, k10, kfb twice, k10, kfb
Round 5: k
Repeat rounds 4 and 5, increasing the number of stitches between the kfbs by two each increase round (so round 6 would have k12 between them) until there are a total of 48 stitches.
Begin pattern:
Round 1: (p1, YO, ssk, k1, YO,ssk, p2) 3 times, k23,p1
Rounds 2, 4 & 6: (p1, k5, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Round 3: (p1, k1, YO, ssk, k2, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Round 5: (p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Continue with these 6 rounds until the foot of sock is 2 inches shorter than desired final foot length, ending with Round 5.
Begin short-row heel:
(worked back and forth over the St st stitches on bottom of foot)
Round 1: (p1, k5, p2) 3 times, k23, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 2: p22, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 3: k21, wrap next stitch, turn
Work rows 2 and 3, decreasing the number of stitches worked before the wrap by 1 on each row until there are 8 stitches left, ending with a wrong side row. (If you like, a stitch marker can be inserted each time you slip the wrapped stitch back to the left needle; this makes it easier to see where the next wrap should go. This uses a blurt-load of stitch markers, but it’s a lifesaver, if you have to put your work down in the middle of the heel!)
Row 4: k8, knit next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch (there are now two wraps on this stitch), turn
Row 5: p9, purl next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 6: k10, knit next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 7: p11, purl next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Repeat rows 6 and 7 until all heel stitches and wraps have been worked, ending with a wrong side row and turning. (If you inserted stitch markers, take them out only after the stitch and its wraps have been knit; slip the marker and the stitch when you do the second wrap, then slip both back.)
Leg:
Round 1: (p1, YO, ssk, k1, YO,ssk, p2) 6 times (this establishes the pattern on the stitches coming out of the heel, and continues the pattern on the instep stitches)
Rounds 2, 4 &6: (p1, k5, p2) 6 times
Round 3: (p1, k1, YO, ssk, k2, p2) 6 times
Round 5: (p2, k2, YO, ssk, k1, p2) 6 times
Work these 6 rounds until leg is 3.5 inches.
Cuff:
Round 1: (k tbl, p1) repeat until end
Work until cuff measures 1 inch. Bind off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in loose ends.
At some point, I will post a reverse of the pattern stitch, so that you can make the second sock mirror the first, as I suggested for the cabled socks. Really. Real soon now.
It occurred to me that, now that I know they are not using my sock designs for Sock Madness, I can post the pics and patterns here. So! Without further ado:
****************************************************************************
Bridget's Madly Cabled Socks
on foot
These socks are worked from the toe up, because that’s how I like to work socks ( ☺ ) and have a short-rowed heel, because I think it looks nicer than a heel flap. Purling the sole stitches is what Charlene Schurch calls a “Princess Foot”, because it is more comfortable to walk on the knit side of the stitches than the purl side.
Materials:
100g/190yds dk yarn
set of 5 dp needles, size 5, or size to get gauge
16 stitch markers (optional)
Gauge:
22 stitches/30 rows to 4 inches/10 cm
Terms:
wrap next stitch (purling): bring yarn to back, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle
wrap next stitch (knitting): bring yarn to front, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle
kfb: knit in front and back of next st
pfb: purl in front and back of next st
k tbl: knit through the back loop, resulting in a twisted stitch (I do all my ribbing with a twisted knit stitch; it seems to make for a springier ribbing.)
Toe:
Using a figure 8 cast on, (http://www.knitty.com/issuewinter02/FEATtiptoptoes.html) cast on 16 stitches.
Round 1: p8, k8
Round 2: pfb of first stitch, p3; take up another needle, p3, pfb in next stitch; take up another needle, kfb, k3; with free needle, k3, kfb. Stitches are now evenly distributed on 4 needles, 5 stitches on each.
Round 3: pfb, p8, pfb, kfb, k8, kfb
Round 4: pfb, p10, pfb, kfb, k10, kfb
Round 5: p14, k14
Repeat rounds 4 and 5, increasing the number of stitches between the inreases by two each increase round (so round 6 would have 12 st between them) until there are a total of 48 stitches.
Begin pattern:
Round 1, 2, 4, 5 &6: p24,* p1, k6, p1* repeat to end
Round 3: p24, *p1, sl next three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle, p1* repeat to end
Continue with these 6 rounds until the foot of sock is 2 inches shorter than desired final foot length, ending with Round 6.
Begin short-row heel:
(worked back and forth over half the stitches)
Row 1: p23, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 2: k22, wrap next stitch, turn
Work rows 1 and 2, decreasing the number of stitches worked before the wrap by 1 on each row until there are 8 stitches left unwrapped, ending with a wrong side row. (If you like, a stitch marker can be inserted each time you slip the wrapped stitch back to the left needle; this makes it easier to see where the next wrap should go. This uses a blurt-load of stitch markers, but it’s a lifesaver, if you have to put your work down in the middle of the heel!)
Row 3: p8, purl next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch (there are now two wraps on this stitch), turn
Row 4: k9, knit next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 5: p10, purl next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 6: k11, knit next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until all heel stitches and wraps have been worked, ending with a wrong side row. (If you inserted stitch markers, take them out only after the stitch and its wraps have been knit; slip the marker and the stitch when you do the second wrap, then slip both back.)
Leg:
Purl across heel stitches then, continue the pattern as established on instep stitches. On next round, continue the pattern across the heel stitches to establish the pattern.
Work the 6 rounds of the pattern until leg is 3.5 inches, ending with Round 6.
Cuff:
Round 1: (k tbl, p1) repeat until end
Work until cuff measures 1 inch. Bind off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in loose ends.
BTW, if you want to make my anal-retentive heart sing, on the second sock you will make the cables twist the other way by holding the needle in back, k3 off the left needle, then k3 off the cable needle. I'm just sayin', is all.
*******************************************************************************
Mad Bridget’s Faux Cables
on foot
These socks look cabled, but there is no changing of the order of the stitches, and hence no need for a cable needle, or the “guts” method of just dropping a stitch off the needle, working the next one, then picking up the dropped stitch on the correct side of the work. They’re worked from the toe up, because that’s how I like to work socks ( ☺ ) and have a short-rowed heel, because I think it looks nicer than a heel flap. The stitch motif comes from Sensational Knitted Socks by Charlene Schurch.
Materials:
100g/190yds dk yarn
set of 5 dp needles, size 5, or size to get gauge
16 stitch markers (optional)
Gauge:
22 stitches/30 rows to 4 inches/10 cm
Terms:
wrap next stitch (purling): bring yarn to back, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle
wrap next stitch (knitting): bring yarn to front, slip next stitch from left needle to right, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle
kfb: knit in front and back of next st
Toe:
Using a figure 8 cast on, (http://www.knitty.com/issuewinter02/FEATtiptoptoes.html) cast on 16 stitches. Knit one round.
Round 2: kfb of first stitch, k3; take up another needle, k3, kfb in next stitch; take up another needle, kfb, k3; with free needle, k3, kfb. Stitches are now evenly distributed on 4 needles, 5 stitches on each.
Round 3: kfb, k8, kfb twice, k8, kfb
Round 4: kfb, k10, kfb twice, k10, kfb
Round 5: k
Repeat rounds 4 and 5, increasing the number of stitches between the kfbs by two each increase round (so round 6 would have k12 between them) until there are a total of 48 stitches.
Begin pattern:
Round 1: (p1, YO, ssk, k1, YO,ssk, p2) 3 times, k23,p1
Rounds 2, 4 & 6: (p1, k5, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Round 3: (p1, k1, YO, ssk, k2, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Round 5: (p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1, p2) 3 times, k23, p1
Continue with these 6 rounds until the foot of sock is 2 inches shorter than desired final foot length, ending with Round 5.
Begin short-row heel:
(worked back and forth over the St st stitches on bottom of foot)
Round 1: (p1, k5, p2) 3 times, k23, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 2: p22, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 3: k21, wrap next stitch, turn
Work rows 2 and 3, decreasing the number of stitches worked before the wrap by 1 on each row until there are 8 stitches left, ending with a wrong side row. (If you like, a stitch marker can be inserted each time you slip the wrapped stitch back to the left needle; this makes it easier to see where the next wrap should go. This uses a blurt-load of stitch markers, but it’s a lifesaver, if you have to put your work down in the middle of the heel!)
Row 4: k8, knit next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch (there are now two wraps on this stitch), turn
Row 5: p9, purl next stitch along with its wrap, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 6: k10, knit next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Row 7: p11, purl next stitch with both its wraps, wrap next stitch, turn
Repeat rows 6 and 7 until all heel stitches and wraps have been worked, ending with a wrong side row and turning. (If you inserted stitch markers, take them out only after the stitch and its wraps have been knit; slip the marker and the stitch when you do the second wrap, then slip both back.)
Leg:
Round 1: (p1, YO, ssk, k1, YO,ssk, p2) 6 times (this establishes the pattern on the stitches coming out of the heel, and continues the pattern on the instep stitches)
Rounds 2, 4 &6: (p1, k5, p2) 6 times
Round 3: (p1, k1, YO, ssk, k2, p2) 6 times
Round 5: (p2, k2, YO, ssk, k1, p2) 6 times
Work these 6 rounds until leg is 3.5 inches.
Cuff:
Round 1: (k tbl, p1) repeat until end
Work until cuff measures 1 inch. Bind off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in loose ends.
At some point, I will post a reverse of the pattern stitch, so that you can make the second sock mirror the first, as I suggested for the cabled socks. Really. Real soon now.
posted by Bridget @ 10:15 AM
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